Rarely seen in the UK, this is a phenomenal find for any serious fine wine enthusiast.
The grape skins, pulp and seeds leftover from making Clos de Tart – one of Burgundy’s most powerful, long-lived and highly sought-after Grand Cru wines – are pressed and then distilled. This spirit is then filled into oak barrels and left to mature, giving it the complexity of an XO Cognac or a Scotch over 20 years of age. If you can bring yourself to pull the precious cork on this almost impossible to come by bottle, you’ll discover prunes, dates, praline, moist tobacco, mushroom, sous bois, marmalade, dried lemon peel and red fruits, and that unique combination of dusty leather and antique oak you find in the libraries of stately homes. And, at around half the price of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Marc de Bourgogne, our limited supplies are unlikely to hang around for long.
Clos de Tart is a 7.5 hectare Burgundy Grand Cru in Morey-Saint-Denis, sandwiched between the Grands Crus of Bonnes Mares and Clos des Lambrays. This impressive wall-enclosed vineyard is entirely owned by Mommessin, making it a monopole. Mommessin was bought in 2017 by François and François-Henri Pinault’s Artemis Group, who also own Bordeaux’s First Growth Château Latour and the auction house Christie’s, and are controlling shareholders of Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Stella McCartney, demonstrating what a fashionable and sought-after property this is.
Created by a group of nuns in 1141, Clos de Tart has become one of the most prized wines in all of Burgundy. It’s the largest monopole in the region and has never been broken up, which makes it incredibly special considering how regularly Burgundy is carved into smaller and smaller pieces. According to Burgundy expert Bill Nanson, Clos de Tart “sits in a peer group of no more than a dozen wines”, and from this legendary plot, Mommessin makes just two wines, the Grand Vin and a rarely seen second wine La Forge de Tart. And, on extremely rare occasions, they also make this Marc de Burgundy.